My mother exposed my siblings and I to a wide variety of foods and cuisines, but as the world turns and thus our cultures mix in an ever shrinking world, she may have missed a few, like East Indian or Middle Eastern or African or Vietnamese foods. No problem, I eagerly tried the, albeit, Americanized versions of such dishes at restaurants that opened in recent years in urban areas. Somehow, despite my mother’s good efforts at exposing her clan to a wide variety of cuisines, I have a younger sister who is quite the “picky eater.” If given a choice between aged cheddar and Kraft Singles, she will take the “Singles” every time. I've witnessed her peel the toppings off of a perfectly crafted pizza and eat just the crust. If you were to serve her one of her favorites, a cucumber salad, made with unpeeled homegrown and thus unwaxed cucumbers, she would promptly pare the skin off and then eat the interior of the cucumbers. And wait! She also doesn’t imbibe, at least if you consider occasionally drinking watered-down “frou-frou” drinks as actually consuming alcohol. In fact, if I wasn’t so certain, from my mother’s detailed stories of the difficult birth she experienced with my younger sister, I’d almost swear that my sister was adopted. I mean, come on, there is no way that someone with our genes doesn’t embrace both a variety of goods foods and good alcohol.
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I’ve a good friend who told me that babies, from the part of India where she was reared, are given milk and formula laced with hot peppers for the purpose of acclimating them to the taste and sensation. To some this type of conditioning might seem tantamount to child abuse, but I’m able to file this in my “it’s not right, it’s not wrong, it’s just different” method of acceptance of our wacky human adaptations to life.
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I consider myself to have a ‘cast iron’ stomach, impervious to common food intolerances. Why, I could practically eat nails! Rarely do I experience indigestion. As a child, it was with relish that I ate my vegetables and asked, no, practically begged for more.
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And so it was I found myself in Japan, a half world of culture away from the good ol’ USA. My younger sister, who has less than a dozen foodstuffs which she can tolerate, and I were visiting a “beloved” family member, who lived and worked in Japan for three years. Culture in Japan, so I was told, dictates that you embrace the “gifts” they put forth to you as a visitor, and they put much thought and effort into finding and presenting these gifts, including food. There is also a desire to honor the “head” of the family and an expectation that this “head” would exemplify the proper behavior for the family.
“Beloved” was, in addition to her job, taking special instruction in the art of the tea ceremony. Her instructor and a friend had arranged a banquet, or kaiseki, for the three of us, at a traditional renowned tea room. We’d removed our shoes upon entering, and were seated at a traditional low table in our own private screened room, with floor cushions for seating. We were served by women in traditional garb.
Now a kaiseki is as much an art form as it is a degustation. The menu is carefully chosen to include the freshest of seasonal ingredients and the food is prepared to emphasize flavor, as well as appearance and texture. The courses of food are artfully arranged and garnished on beautiful porcelain vessels, each cup, bowl, saucer or plate to be marveled over as much as the food itself.
And the food itself... Well, it was overwhelming, I’m almost at a loss... But, well you know what a banquet is. Ours included (interspersed with saki, small glasses of other beverages, and palate cleansers, mind you): appetizers, a second course including sushi and sashimi, then vegetables steamed with fish, then a soup, then grilled meat, then a hotpot dish, then pickled vegetables and some tempura as well. And then, just before dessert, came the pièce de résistance, (forgive my french).
“Beloved” was a vegetarian, which excused her from any dishes containing meat or meat broth. And my sister wasn’t able to eat anything, save the rice and maybe a couple of pickled vegetables. The two of them could help out with marveling over the vessels and the beautiful presentation, but they wouldn’t be much help with the actual eating of the food. So, it was on me, my friends, as the official head of the family, it was all on me, to devour the food with appropriate gusto.
Our hosts had limited English and “Beloved” did the translations. While biting into a bit of strange looking vegetable I asked her what it was. “You know,” she sighed, “sometimes it’s best not to know. Just eat it.”
So, when the pièce de résistance was placed in front of me and only me, all eyes were upon me. First I gave just due to the beautiful bowl in which the food was placed. And actually, it didn’t look too bad, I thought. It looked like clear cellophane noodles in a watery broth with a dusting of coarse, freshly ground black pepper. And so I happily slurped all that was in the bowl, to the delight of our hosts, whose hands clasped to their chests and whose eyes shining in contentment, seemed pleased that they had laid out, what was probably a small fortune, just for the pleasure of entertaining their American guests.
But no, the dish hadn’t tasted like clear rice vermicelli, it had more of a oyster-y, briny element to it. I couldn’t help myself, I had to know. “What was it?” I asked. Translations went back and forth and “Beloved” smiled smugly, as if to say, “Now, I warned you...”
“They were live baby eels.”
My sister, who as I remind you, does not imbibe, grabbed for the sake, feigning a cough to mask her gasp, as she took a swig and then actually did cough, as she realized it was the sake she’d grabbed.
Okay, just keep your eyebrows in check and smile, I told myself, as I nodded and grinned at my hosts, realizing that what I’d thought were flecks of black pepper, had been the poor eel's eyes.
I don’t remember much detail about the finish of the meal. The desserts included some tiny chocolate candies, some fresh strawberries and maybe red bean ice cream. Of course, the three of us had a good laugh in the cab ride back to “Beloved’s” apartment, where we rolled out our futons and bedded down on the floor for the night. We all fell asleep pretty quickly. I woke up suddenly at about 2 a.m. and tiptoed to the bathroom as my stomach expelled its contents.
Yet still, I do not blame my cast iron stomach. I’m pretty sure, it was my brain that just couldn’t get past those black pepper eyes looking up at me from that beautiful porcelain bowl.